or: a survival manual
Now this is not as bad as it sounds, India is not the jungle (ok, partly it is but not the part I (temporarily) chose to settle in) and the chances of survival are pretty high. But there are certain differences and points I would like to draw your attention to:
Walking
Watch where you step. I'm sure your parents have been telling you this since you first started walking but seriously: Watch where you step. Because in addition to the footpath being extremely uneven and low hanging tree branches getting into your face, the spot where you naturally would have set your foot next might simply not be there. Or already occupied by a - mostly biscuit coloured - dog. Or move away from right under your foot. Or turn into a puddle, depending on the time of year.
Traffic
Traffic might look chaotic at first (who am I kidding - it is!) but there is one rule: anything goes. And as opposed to driving/riding/walking in Europe where the rules watch over you, here you're responsible for yourself. You're treated like an adult, capable of making your own decisions and judging when would be a good time to cross a road or squeeze in between a few other vehicles. So yes, keep your eyes open at all times. Which doesn't mean you can't wedge your phone under your helmet to keep up the chat once the light has turned green..
Traffic
Traffic might look chaotic at first (who am I kidding - it is!) but there is one rule: anything goes. And as opposed to driving/riding/walking in Europe where the rules watch over you, here you're responsible for yourself. You're treated like an adult, capable of making your own decisions and judging when would be a good time to cross a road or squeeze in between a few other vehicles. So yes, keep your eyes open at all times. Which doesn't mean you can't wedge your phone under your helmet to keep up the chat once the light has turned green..
Prohibitions
"No parking for two wheelers" can be found right above a row of parked motorbikes, "Stick no bills" is written between two advertising posters on a wall and the foot of a "No plastic zone" sign is covered in discarded bags and empty bottles. Prohibitive signs are seldom more than a suggestion. 'Who is he/she to tell me what to do' was my friend T's very apt remark when I posted the picture of another such incident on my second India trip and that seems to cover it. And trust me, there will be a time when you're happy about it. For me, it was at the dance performance I attended with K., coming right from school, not having eaten anything after breakfast (about 8 hours ago). In the foyer, snacks were available, so I bought a piece of something and a cup of tea and headed for the hall. The sign of "No food and drink" threw me off for a moment but then the idea of 'Who is he..' popped up in my head again and I entered anyway. Nobody cared.
"No parking for two wheelers" can be found right above a row of parked motorbikes, "Stick no bills" is written between two advertising posters on a wall and the foot of a "No plastic zone" sign is covered in discarded bags and empty bottles. Prohibitive signs are seldom more than a suggestion. 'Who is he/she to tell me what to do' was my friend T's very apt remark when I posted the picture of another such incident on my second India trip and that seems to cover it. And trust me, there will be a time when you're happy about it. For me, it was at the dance performance I attended with K., coming right from school, not having eaten anything after breakfast (about 8 hours ago). In the foyer, snacks were available, so I bought a piece of something and a cup of tea and headed for the hall. The sign of "No food and drink" threw me off for a moment but then the idea of 'Who is he..' popped up in my head again and I entered anyway. Nobody cared.
Shopping and bargaining
A lot of the shopping here happens on markets or in slightly run down looking stores. In Europe, that would be a sign of bad management and poor quality of the wares. Not here. It's simply common to know exactly where to go for something specific (the key word is Thippasandra, right, V.?!). Small shops signify that they specialise in one product or range of products. A shop entirely for shelves, one for bedding and cushions and one for chairs and tables are perfectly normal. Slight 'Run-downishness' just means that you pay for the product and not for the upkeep of the store.
Of course, products have prices. In most privately owned shops and especially market stalls, these aren't fixes and you would be surprised by the percentage that can be shaved off the original price. Bargaining is important here. If you don't do it, both you and the salesperson will be unhappy. You because you know that you've paid too much. 'Firangi special' my friend M. used to call that. And the salesperson because they didn't demand an even higher price from you to begin with. My bargaining strategy is usually such that I think of a price I am willing to pay for a specific item. If the asking price is more, I say what I'm ready to pay. Agree? Great. If not, I move on, more often than not being called back. If the price they demand is within my price range already, I generally ask if that is the best they can do and that normally takes off at least a small proportion as well. 'I'm too cheap not to bargain', I once admitted. 'No, you're too Indian', V. replied with a smile.
Dates
6 pm. 'Can you teach me for like an hour after class, please? I didn't get it.' - Sure. 'I'll come over around 6.30, ok?!' - Definitely.
9 am. 'Are you free this morning till 11?' - Yes. 'I'll be there early, around 10.30, does that work for you?' - Of course.
Overlapping dates. My first reaction would be to say no, to try and reschedule at least one of them. But living in India has taught me that this is rarely necessary. 6.30 can easily turn into 7 or even 7.30 .. 8.00, especially if TC. is involved (you know who you are!). 10.30 plus 'Sorry, I overslept' will give you a good hour extra. I never really had two dates or appointments getting into each other's way, so you can confidently say yes to whatever you are planning and scheduling without the fear of an imminent clash.
Dinner Invitations
'Come over at 8, we'll have dinner.' Done as said, shortly past 8, we arrive. The table is in the last stages of being set, we make small talk for a while. Then we move to the table, dish after dish is set before us. The hosts only sit down to eat with us when we insist, still hesitantly. Then, dinner is over, the conversation is slowing down. I whisper to M. that maybe we should get going, having read something to that extent in one guide to India. 'No, it would be rude to leave right after dinner', she replies, because yes, at home it WOULD be considered rude. As the conversation is not picking up again, I thank our hosts profusely and suggest that it is late and we should make a move. In their faces, I see agreement although they were undoubtedly happy to have us. M. is surprised.
Yes, Indian dinners are different. The conversational part happens before the actual meal, hardly during and definitely not afterwards unless you're with really close friends. And then you wrap it up. Thank you, bye, see you soon..
Food
What to say about Indian food? I love it and it loves me. India is a paradise for vegetarians - if you're not sure what you're about to eat, the default option is generally vegetarian. As a first time traveller, you're not supposed to eat street food. When did I start doing that? Oh yea, on day 2 of my first trip here. Oh, but the consequences .. were zero. Nothing happened. Even after the second time, third, fourth. So I decided that it's all a question of your attitude: If you think that you will catch something from your food, you will. But if you - or me - think you won't, well then that's what happens. In two prior trips and by now a good half year of living in India, I've never had a serious problem and intend to keep it that way. And yes, I try anything I'm offered as long as it's veg.
That should conclude my blog which was long due, some might even say overdue. If I've left anything unanswered, if you have any 'doubts', as my students are prone to saying, please feel free to ask :-).
